[footnote at the bottom of page 20]
*About 200 Roman copper coins were found here ; some of which were
in good preservation.
stations. Passing through this portal, we have an instantaneous view
of Willersley Castle, the elegant mansion of Richard Arkwright, Esq.
It was built by his father, Sir Richard Arkwright, and is of a beautiful
freestone, that contrasts charmingly with the woody eminence at the
back of it. The knoll it stands upon declines from the front, rather
precipitously, and then gently slopes to the river. In front the ground
forms a fine extent of lawn, but it is unhappily too much spotted
with trees, which give it the appearance of an orchard ; and thus
spoils a fine appendage to an elegant mansion. A few clumps judiciously
placed might have had a good effect.
It is to be regretted that so many trees are suffered to grow at this
end of Scarthin Rock : if some of them were cleared away, those impending
crags, with the rich fringe of trees on their summits, would appear
with peculiar advantage in a picturesque point of view ; and from
this station would make the principal object in a good prospect down
the river, and render this spot still more interesting, which already
commands a good view of Willersley Castle, another of Scarthin Nick,
with the Cromford rock seen through it; likewise one up the dale,
where Harpedge rises precipitously from the road, and is a good object.
In the view pointed crags start out on its summit, giving it an Alpine
air, and a character different to the rest of the eminences in the
dale. What a pity to plant it, so as to destroy this leading character!
Had the plantation been confined below the summit, so far as to leave
these points naked, a pleasing contrast would have been produced;
but now, a few years will render it only a wood of formal fir trees.
Plantations are to be seen in every part of the kingdom, but the grand
diversity of rocks we meet with here are seldom witnessed ; planting,
therefore, should here be a subordinate consideration and used as
a set off and contrast to the grand and leading features of the country,
and not become the principal by hiding them. Uncouth and crude deformity,
and interesting wastes, cannot be better dealt with or Improved than
by a thick covering of trees If in this neighbourhood the spade was
used with more caution, and the axe with greater judgment, the scenes
(beautiful as they now are) would still be improved.
The grounds at Willersley are permitted, by the liberality of Mr.
Arkwright, to be seen every Monday and Thursday : a person is also
appointed by that gentleman to conduct visitors through them. The
diversified beauties they display, will prove a rich treat to those
who relish the picturesque. The way leads by a gentle descent, underneath
the awful weather-beaten front of Scarthin.*
[footnote at the bottom of page 22]
*Here we see a glaring defect in the practice of landscape gardening,
by the want of a variation in the surface of
[continued at the bottom of page 23]
It faces the castle, but is separated from the grounds by the river,
which rushes over a rocky channel with a ceaseless rumble. Looking
up at those impending masses of limestone, amazement and fear fill
the mind with such wavering ideas, as for a while confuses the imagination.
Turning the eye from this, we see opposite a more tranquillizing object,
the direct front of Willersley Castle. The design and proportions
of the building are altogether so pleasing; as not to raise a desire
that any part was otherwise than what it is the architect has here
displayed a design at once novel and pleasing. The mansion consists
of a centre body, with wings, connected with it by a small corridor;
the wings, contrary to the usual practice, rather recede instead of
advancing before the main body of the edifice. A round tower rises
through the roof in the centre of the building ; on each side the
entrance is also a small round tower that rises to the whole height
of the front; each angle of the wings has likewise a small round tower;
and the whole is embattled. The road now leads by the church, which
was also built and endowed by the late Sir
[footnote at the bottom of page 23, continued from
page 22]
the ground; which, underneath a large rugged rock, is absolutely necessary
for preserving the picturesque effect. If, instead of the regular
slope, the ground had been undulated, it would have given the road
a wavy appearance, and would have better associated with the rude
crags.
Richard Arkwright. It is of a red sandstone, neat and commodious ;
although the design are proportions are inelegant. The tower is too
small for the body of the church, and the whole is a futile attempt
at the Gothic stile of architecture. A little beyond the bridge the
grounds are entered at a small but neat lodge, from whence the road
ascends gradually to the castle, which is not shewn. It contains some
pictures by that excellent artist, the late Mr. Wright, of Derby.
Amongst the portraits is a fine whole length of the late Sir Richard
Arkwright ; he is represented as sitting in his study, with one hand
resting on table, whereon is placed an essential part of the machinery
that he invented for spinning cotton : here is also a view of Ullswater
Lake, by Wright said to be his last performance, and is most likely
the best landscape he ever produced; it certainly a very fine picture.
Mr. Arkwright purchased it for 300 guineas. An amateur once met with
at Matlock Bath had seen this picture, and was so enraptured with
its beauties, to declare it was worth 1000 guineas, and if he had
been at the sale, he should himself have gone as far as 600 guineas
for It. This gentleman not I being there was unfortunate for the seller,
but otherwise for the purchaser.
As from the terrace we survey the varied scenery around, we again
admire the situation chosen for this mansion; it is elevated, yet
surrounded by much loftier eminences: even Scarthin, directly opposite,
does not interrupt the view of Cromford Moor, with its extraordinary
gritstone rocks.
The walks in the wood, that covers the eminence at the back of the
castle, are very romantic, winding in a circuit of about a mile. Another
walk follows the course of the river, but at a considerable height
above the stream, leading by rocks that are extremely picturesque,
with trees growing out of the chinks in a very extraordinary manner,
so that we are surprised that they obtain sufficient nourishment to
support their luxurious foliage. Some of these form pretty scraps
for an artist. This walk ascends to the summit of Wild Cat Tor, from
whence we have a sudden display of the beauties of Matlock-dale ;
a vast ridge of rocks, crowned by a variety of fine trees, whose luxuriant
foliage flows down their grey fronts in the most playful manner, form
the eastern side of the dale; the steep declivity from their bases
to the river, is cloathed with a thick wood. On the opposite side
are fine trees, whose pendant branches dimple the stream, which is
darkened by their shadows, and is so gentle as to appear quite motionless,
until it reaches the weir, just under our feet, where, dashed into
white foam, and wild uproar, it forms a powerful contrast to the stark
stillness above; this is truly a very rich scene. The Bath houses,
Masson Hill with the
Heights of Abraham, and the top of the High Tor, are also comprehended
in this view. There are, also, other walks that lead to scenery that
is highly picturesque, and well worth attention. However, it is now
my purpose to pursue Matlock Dale. Having retraced my steps by Scarthin
Rock, the road gently descends to some brick buildings, which are
a Calvinistic chapel, and the minister's house; near the latter is
a good peep up the river. A large cotton-mill, belonging to Mr. Arkwright,
is obliquely seen with the cascade mentioned above, and a fine indented
rampart of rocks, with a charming variety of foliage, form an interesting
back-ground, uniting the whole into a compact picture. A little farther
on the road we arrive at the cotton mill, "whose operations,"
says Mr. Warner, " are so elegantly described by Dr. Darwin,
in a work which discovers the art, hitherto unknown, of cloathing
in poetical language, and decorating with beautiful imagery, the unpoetical
operations of mechanical processes, and the dry detail of manufactures."
" So now, where Derwent rolls his dusky floods,
Through vaulted mountains, and a night of woods,
The Nymph Gossypia,* treads the velvet sod,
And warms with rosy smiles the watery God
His ponderous oars to slender spindles turns,
And pours o'er mossy wheels his foamy urns ;
[footnote at the bottom of page 26]
*Gossypium: the cotton plant.
With playful charms her hoary lover wins,
And wields his trident,-while the monarch spins,
First with nice eye emerging Naiades cull,
From leathery pods the vegetable wool ;
With wiry teeth revolving cards release
The tangled knots, and smooth the ravell'd fleece
Next moves the iron hand with fingers fine,
Combs the wide card, and forms the eternal line ;
Slow, with soft lips the whirling can acquires
The tender skeins, and warps in rising spires ;
With quicken'd pace successive rollers move,
And these retain, and those extend the rove ;
Then fly the spokes, the rapid axles glow,
And slowly circumvolves the labouring wheel below."
Botanic Garden.
[Page 27 continues] |