pp.23-27 THE WALK TO WILLERSLEY.
The road from Matlock-Bath to Cromford lies in a southern direction,
passing by Lady Glenorchy's Chapel for Presbyterian worship, between
the course of the river on the left hand, and a picturesque range of
hills on the right, till it reaches a grand opening between two massive
limestone rocks, which stand like giant sentinels at the entrance of the
vale, or as guards of honour to the portal of Nature's lovely retreats.
Here, through the gate of the lodge to the left, is the entrance to
WILLERSLEY PARK, along what is called "Chapel Walk."
CROMFORD CHURCH is distant about a mile from Matlock-Bath, and stands in
the picturesque grounds of Willersley Castle ; the road to which is a most
interesting character, and abounds in scenes of majesty and beauty. The
approach to this rural house of prayer is particularly romantic and
beautiful ; on the right rises a lofty chain of towering rocks, and on
the opposite side of the river, which here adds a new loveliness to the
landscape, the view is bounded by a succession of undulating hills,
clothed with verdure and foliage. At the extremity of this delightful path,
near to a bridge which overarches the stream, the church rears
its humble tower, as if directing the thought of man to Him from whom
all blessings flow. It is a small but neat building of hewn stone, without
much pretension to architectural beauty. Its erection was commenced by
the direction of Sir Richard Arkwright, and after his decease was completed
by his son, R. Arkwright, Esq. Though it was originally intended only as
a mausoleum and church for the Arkwright family, that design has been widely
departed from, and it is now available for divine worship to the inhabitants
of the district. It was opened on June 4th, 1797, when the Reverend R. Ward,
M.A., its first Incumbent, officiated. Its original size was 70 feet long and
45 feet broad. It has lately been enlarged and improved. On the south side of
the Communion table is a beautiful monument by Chantry, to the memory of Mrs.
Arkwright and her three infant children.
An ancient chapel once stood near this site, at the south end of Cromford
Bridge. The building, which has been converted into a dwelling house, was
taken down, with the exception of a gothic arched doorway, by Mr. Arkwright's
direction, in 1796. This chapel was in existence in 1540 as appears by the
will of Richard Wigley, of Middleton who left to it a small legacy.
On ascending the hill to WILLERSLEY CASTLE, a succession of charming and
impressive views breaks upon us at every turn ; till on reaching the towering
summit of a projecting rock, designated Wild Car Tor, a glorious panorama of
beauty and magnificence exhibits, as in one vast picture, the beauties and
wonders of this romantic spot. Such a scene as
"Speaks to man in one eternal hymn,
Unfading beauty and unyielding power."
The mansion is more remarkable for elegance and simplicity
within, and for just proportion and symmetry in its external appearance, than
for any pretensions of architectural effect — simplex munditiis. It
contains numerous portraits and other paintings by Wright of Derby and Barber,
particularly a view of Ullswater Lake by the former, which cost Sir Richard
Arkwright about £3000. The architect was Mr. W. Thomas of London. After
the edifice was completed, but before it was inhabited, it was set on fire by
the heat of a stove, some timber having been incautiously inserted too near a
flue, and all that was combustible in it was consumed. The accident happened
on the 8th of August, 1791. The Park and Castle are open to visitors at certain
times, of which information may be obtained at "The Library," Messrs. Bemrose
& Sons, on Matlock Parade.
The Cotton Mill built at Cromford, in the immediate vicinity of Willersley, is
suggestive, as the author of "Peak Scenery" remarks, of possessions obtained
by mechanical skill and commercial enterprise, and is an instance of the fact
that honourable industry is its own reward. Sir Richard Arkwright, the founder
of the fortunes of his family, was born in humble life in Preston, in 1732. In
1767, he was settled in Warrington, where he became acquainted with John Kay,
a clockmaker, who advised him to improve the cotton engine. This he did, and
connected himself in his new enterprise with Smalley, of Preston, and removed
to Nottingham, where he obtained funds, and there built his first great Cotton
Mill, which was worked by horses. Riots drove him thence ; and he established
at different times, mills in Lancashire, Derbyshire, and at New Lanark, in
Scotland. The first Sir Robert Peel employed his invetions,
and soon after 1767, brought them into prosperous action. Steam-power was applied ;
and in 1771 Mr. Arkwright erected works at Cromford : twenty years afterwards
he died rich. In 1786, he served the office of High Sheriff for Derbyshire,
and received the honour of Knighthood on presenting a loyal address from the
county to King George the Third. He died, aged sixty, at Cromford, August
3rd, 1792.
CROMFORD is an old town, with a good market-place and inn, the Greyhound. The
Cotton Mills find employment for the working classes, and an air of comfort
pervades the place. The High Peak Railway, which was constructed at a cost
of £200,000, has a station there ; and about half-a-mile from the market
place, in a very pleasant spot, is the station of the Midland Railway Company,
whence many delightful walks may be taken, and public conveyances run to the
ancient market-town of Wirksworth, which is distant about two miles-and-a-half ;
from Matlock Bath three miles ; and from Derby (by road), thirteen miles.
From Cromford there is a charming walk or drive through what is fancifully called
the VIA GELLIA--no Roman road, but so called because it runs through the estates of
the Gell family. In early spring-time, the sides of this road abound with lilies of
the valley, and other wild flowers of luxuriant growth ; and throughout the year
the beautiful foliage of the trees which clothe the acclivities and adorn the crags,
contributes to form a succession of natural pictures, which artists and poets have
emulated each other in delineating.
A short and pleasant ramble leads to BONSALL, a remarkably picturesque village, with
a fine old church which has latterly been restored and beautified, occupying a
commanding position on a shelving rock — like the house of
a Swiss poet, which "looks out on a domain a monarch might be proud of." Bonsall
also has its own ancient Market Cross, its primitive public-house, and in all those
other characteristics which mark these quiet settlements of the miners of the olden time.
[There follows an engraving of Cromford Bridge, but I do not have this image. A.A.]
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